Your head is precious so treat it that way and use it – get yourself a proper rock climbing helmet from a good maker instead of just borrowing something that has been sitting at the back of the closet in the club and has been dropped who-knows how many times.
You wouldn’t abseil using a tatty old rope, so don’t risk your precious head with an old helmet that may have internal damage. Even more important that choosing the right helmet, is putting one on when you go out. Remember: A climbing helmet is an essential piece of safety gear.
Your helmet will ideally help you in two ways.
The first is that a helmet will provide protection from rocks falling from above. No helmet is impregnable, but a decent one will provide a good deal of protection to your head from falling rocks that could otherwise cause serious injury or even prove fatal.
The second thing that modern helmets do is they also provide a measure of protection to the head (and brain) in the event that you take a fall.
What is a modern climbing helmet made of?
In most helmets these days there is an out shell that is made of thermo-plastic or ABS. This provides a strong outer shell to protect against daily scratches and drops as well as to provide protection as against puncturing from sharp rocks.
The inner layer is for shock-absorption to dampen the impact of a rock falling. This may be made from foam (as with bicycle helmets) or some sort of suspended webbing.
The big difference between the two is that foam helmets usually have to be discarded after taking even a relatively small blow. This is because the foam itself gets damaged in absorbing the impact. They may even fall apart under multiple impacts (a problem for a climber trapped on a route where there are a number of loose rocks falling).
The plus side of these is that they are usually very light. A good example is the Petzl Elios.
Webbing-type climbing helmets
The webbing-type helmet, on the other hand, is heavier but because the inner webbing absorbs the impact, the helmet itself is usually a lot more durable and is able to withstand multiple impacts. A good example of this is the Petzl Ecrin Roc, which is made with a polycarbonate shell (this stuff is incredibly strong) and has a fantastic reputation.
On long, Alpine-style ascents you might want to consider a lighter foam-filled helmet.
Most helmets listed also have a number of air vents to keep you cool in summer, and some can be blocked off to keep you warm in winter. Helmets that will be used at night or in caving expeditions will usually have a lamp clip to hold your light. If you plan to climb in cold conditions you will want to check that your helmet can accept a hood to keep your head warm.
What size helmet?
When choosing a helmet the sort that you get will determine whether you can get different sizes or a one-size-fits all. Many helmets with web-type suspension come in a single size and are adjustable to fit a large number of heads. They also usually fit men or women.
When it comes to foam-filled helmets there is usually a range of sizes including w0men-specific sizing. This is because they can’t adjusted to the same degree.
When choosing a helmet make sure it is properly certified. There are two main certifications that you can look for. Either the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization).
Check the fit carefully when buying as a snug fit is essential.
